Flooring
Tips For Removing Linoleum
By: Lee Dobbins
When it comes time to get new flooring you can save money by removing the old
flooring yourself but if you have old linoleum on your floors you might be in
for quite a challenge. Depending on how old the linoleum is and the type of
adhesive that was used it can be extremely difficult to get up.
First of all, it's unlikely that you'll be able to just remove the linoleum and
adhesive all at once. The surface under the linoleum and the damage you might
cause it needs to be considered - especially if that surface is wood. Concrete
floors can take a lot more in the way of rough treatment. The type of scraper
you use has a lot to do with your success as well as the damage to the floor
underneath. Many people use paint scrapers but those with a razor blade are
usually more efficient. Be prepared to break some blades it if the adhesive is
hard, and you're working on concrete.
Try cutting the linoleum into strips or sections instead of removing the whole
chunk at once. This will make it easier to get an edge to pry up. Of course, the
linoleum probably won't come up in nice neat sections so be prepared to deal
with a lot of left over backing and glue that is still attached to your floor.
One way to deal with those remnants that just won't come up is to apply some
kind of solvent or remover. A popular brand is Krud Kutter, which appears to
work very well from the customer feedback comments. Follow directions on the
label of whatever product you employ, and wear gloves to protect your hands. Do
a small section at a time, and then move to the next one.
Another technique is to use boiling water and pour it directly on the backing
and adhesive. Let it soak and then scrape up. If you don't want to use water,
you can try to heat up the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun. Pick a very
inconspicuous area, such as behind a door, to try it. Heat the adhesive with the
hair dryer and scrape it up with a straight-blade scraper (like a stiff putty
knife with a beveled edge). Move the scraper in the direction of the grain of
the wood if you are uncovering a hardwood floor. Have a pan or some other
container handy to drop the scrapings into - one that is unlikely to either melt
or ignite when coming in contact with hot materials. Be very careful if you are
using a heat gun as this can easily damage the floor underneath if it is wood.
If worse comes to worse and you are left with some stubborn adhesive on the
floors, it might be time to sand. Of course, if your floors are wood and you
plan to refinish them you would need to sand anyway, but during this step you
must be careful not to damage the particular area by keeping the sander on it
for too long.
Once you finally get the linoleum and all traces of adhesive up, you are ready
to seal the floor as recommended for the type of flooring and apply the new
floor as recommended!
Author Bio
Lee Dobbins writes for A Kitchen Decorating Idea where you can find more tips on
kitchen remodeling and decorating on a budget.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleGeek.com - Free Website Content
How to install hardwood floors
By: installguru
Installing hardwood flooring is very much like putting a puzzle together.
There are three main installation methods. These are nail-down installation,
glue-down installation, and floating installation. It is assumed that you have a
level subfloor that is wood for nail-down installation. Glue-down and floating
installations can usually be done on both wood and concrete subfloors, but it
must be level also.
Nail-down installation
1. Remove any baseboards or shoe moldings. Baseboard is used to hide the gap
that you must leave for expansion and contraction of wood. So, you will want to
make sure your subfloor is clear to the walls in order to have a place to come
back and install the base and shoe molding later. The standard gap between the
flooring and the walls is 3/16" to 3/4" depending on your manufacturer and style
of flooring.
2. Screw down any loose or squeaky boards and undercut any door jambs to allow
for the wood to be installed underneath. A helpful tip is to use the backside of
one of your boards to determine the height needed to be cut off of your door
jambs.
3. Start laying out the first row. Try to run the boards perpendicular to your
floor joists if possible. You will need to either pop a chalk line or stretch a
line parallel to your first wall. Make sure and account at this point for any
out of square issues in your room. Once you start running boards they will
appear as straight as the first board. You usually would measure from one side
of the wall to the other and adjust any discrepancies with this first row. Make
sure and predrill your first row or two for nails and face nail them into joists
if possible.
4. Dry fit the next 3 feet or so. Make sure you are pulling your strips or
planks from three separate boxes randomly so that the natural graining of the
wood will vary slightly. This way your installed floor will have a more uniform
look. Now you can layout all your boards for 3 feet or so and make your length
cuts accordingly.
5. Nail down the next rows. Use a flooring nailer to nail through the tongue of
the board. These are usually available for rent at most tool rental outlets.
Using a rubber mallet to shoot the nail through the tongue. Make sure you adjust
the nailer so that it countersinks the boards. Keep alternating nailing and
dry-fitting boards to assure a proper fit.
6. Nail around any obstacles in the floor such as cabinets or pipes/fixtures
that come out of the subfloor. Make sure you leave the appropriate gap around
any of these obstacles.
7. Face nail the last few rows when you come to the edge of the room.
8. Next install your transitions and base moldings. Make sure you allow for a
gap inside your transition. Also, make sure that you do not nail down the
transition or moldings to the wood floor. You will need to nail the base
moldings into the wall and the transitions into the floor in a place where it
will not come into contact with the wood. Sometimes it is helpful to add some
construction adhesive to the bottom of the transitions as these are usually high
traffic areas. Over time this will prevent squeaking.
Glue-down installation
1. Remove any baseboards or shoe moldings. Baseboard is used to hide the gap
that you must leave for expansion and contraction of wood. So, you will want to
make sure your subfloor is clear to the walls in order to have a place to come
back and install the base and shoe molding later. The standard gap between the
flooring and the walls is 3/16" to 3/4" depending on your manufacturer and style
of flooring.
2. If installing over a wood subfloor, screw down any loose or squeaky boards,
Undercut any door jambs to allow for the wood to be installed underneath. A
helpful tip is to use the backside of one of your boards to determine the height
needed to be cut off of your door jambs.
3. Start laying out the first row. Try to run the boards perpendicular to your
floor joists if possible. You will need to either pop a chalk line or stretch a
line parallel to your first wall. Make sure and account at this point for any
out of square issues in your room. Once you start running boards they will
appear as straight as the first board. You usually would measure from one side
of the wall to the other and adjust any discrepancies with this first row. Glue
down this first row.
4. Dry fit the next 3 feet or so. Make sure you are pulling your strips or
planks from three separate boxes randomly so that the natural graining of the
wood will vary slightly. This way your installed floor will have a more uniform
look. Now you can layout all your boards for 3 feet or so and make your length
cuts accordingly.
5. Apply glue a foot or so out from the board and glue down the next few rows.
Keep in mind the larger the room the less area away from your board you will be
able to glue at a time. Make sure and keep some cleanup rags to try and keep the
glue off the wood. Most manufacturers sell these as accessories. You can also
use Acetone on a cotton or cheesecloth rag.
6. Glue around any obstacles in the floor such as cabinets or pipes/fixtures
that come out of the subfloor. Make sure you leave the appropriate gap around
any of these obstacles.
7. Glue down the last few rows when you come to the edge of the room.
8. Next install your transitions and base moldings. Make sure you allow for a
gap inside your transition. Also, make sure that you do not glue down the
transition or moldings to the wood floor. You will need to nail the base
moldings into the wall and glue the transitions into the floor in a place where
it will not come into contact with the wood using some construction adhesive to
the bottom of the transitions.
Author Bio
InstallGuru is the founder of InstallHowTo.com and a construction industry
professional with 15 yrs of experience.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleGeek.com - Free Website Content
For more info on buying and choosing the best hardwood floors online and offline go to http://www.Hardwood-Floor-Contractor.com for money-saving tips, help, facts, reviews and advice including do-it-yourself on all types of hardwood flooring
by www.renovationfinder.com
Wood over concrete can be done. For the longest time, homeowners were warned that wide plank wood floors installed over concrete would result in moisture problems. But that’s not so anymore. A concrete sub-floor is no reason to deny your home beautiful wood floors.
It is true that wood is affected by climate change: wood fibers expand and contract with fluctuations in relative humidity. However, this movement and the resulting moisture problems can be controlled with proper installation techniques and the use of high quality wood products.
If you’re going to be installing over concrete, it becomes even more critical that you understand what part of the tree the boards are cut from and the manner in which the boards were processed; both of these factors are vital to your overall satisfaction with the floor. Wood cut from the center of a tree contains a higher percentage of vertical grain which makes it less susceptible to movement and thus a higher quality material.
Before you embark on this installation process, there are certain rules of thumb to manage moisture and ensure the stability of the wood:
1. Be sure the wood supplier has properly dried the wood. 2. Let the wood acclimate in the home or business for 7-10 days. 3. During acclimation in your home or business, keep relative humidity at 45 percent. 4. Make sure the wood flooring has proper stress reliefs (These ridges on the underside of the wood relieve tension in wood, reduces board movement, and provides a greater glue surface).
There are two options for installation of wide plank wood floors. Both options are driven by the height allowance between the slab and door. To determine height, measure the distance from the top of slab to the bottom of the exterior door or measure the transition to other flooring surfaces. Check accuracy by swinging door completely in both directions.
Here are some step-by-step installation guidelines once you know the height allowance:
Option One: Gluing directly to concrete -- 1/2 to 3/4 inch height allowance Using an adhesive product, spread one layer of adhesive onto the concrete per manufacturer’s instructions and place your planks, milled to 1/2 to 3/4 inch thickness directly onto the adhesive. Allow 12 hours drying time before finishing your floors.
Option Two-A: Concrete slab with plywood sub-floor -- 1 inch height allowance Place a layer of 6mm polyethylene onto the concrete as your moisture barrier. Using a fastening tool, shoot concrete nails into 1/2 inch plywood to apply directly onto concrete. Install Wide Plank Floors, milled to 1/2 inch thickness by blind nailing and gluing.
Option Two-B: Concrete slab with plywood sub-floor -- 1 1/2 inches or more height allowance Lay down 3/4 inch plywood and then follow the directions above.
The cost associated with both options for installing wood over concrete is similar. However, due to the cost of the adhesives, it can be slightly cheaper to use the plywood method.
It’s also possible to install floors over concrete slabs with radiant heat. The installation process calls for using a floating plywood sub-floor.
Article source: ArticlePros.com
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About the author Article courtesy of www.RenovationFinder.com., the ultimate home improvement guide. |
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